A short flight of stairs divides this cement-walled restaurant and bar, where diners congregate in a dimly lit room to the left or a crowded cluster of tables to the right. An ample counter bar wraps around an open kitchen, providing plenty of theatrics for the sake-swilling East Burnside crowd seated elbow-to-elbow. From the dinner hour to late night, the conversational buzz rises steadily as patrons warm up over steaming hotpot soups and izakaya small plates like handmade gyoza, Korean beef tartare and spicy octopus salad.